Asori Soto pulls onto a dusty, deserted street and hits the brakes. We’re in the heart of Havana, but you wouldn’t know it from the bombed-out feel of the block and the piles of rubble strewn about the street. As Soto waves me into a courtyard littered with chunks of concrete, I see glimmers of the past: the ornate 12-foot-high doors, a vast foyer, and a gently curving marble staircase with a goddesslike statue at the foot of the banister whose head went missing sometime after the revolution of 1959. But we’ve come not for the nostalgia but for one of the finest meals in the country, which is served here, two flights up, at La Guarida, the not exactly clandestine restaurant that Enrique Nuñez del Valle opened in his boyhood home in 1996.